Northern Exposure

 

The long wall which extends north of Tomahawk.



Click on image to view

Much of this band is broken and loose with the exception of some excellent rock in the middle section of the cliff. Routes face NW, get afternoon sun and can be wet during snow melt. gets morning-early afternoon shade in the summer.

Latest route condition symbols:

👍👍= usually clean, climbed regularly
👍=usually clean but climbed infrequently
👎= climbed infrequently or probably dirty/deteriorated
💀=dangerous
T = Trad-some gear required
S = Sport- all bolts

North End

Click on image to view

Approach from the Prow and continue along the cliff base about 70m beyond The Grotto. Mystère is directly below a prominent pointed overhang perched over the cliff.

Block Top *** 5.11a S 👍👍

The first bolted route on the left (north) end of the cliff. Start just left of a blocky corner on a steep face with orange-white streaked rock. Pull jugs to the second bolt and move right. Move left at the overhang onto good holds. 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks.

Roofous Left ** 5.12a S 👍👍

Start with a V4 boulder problem through the left side of the roof (stick clip bolt). Continue on easier, solid terrain (avoid loose rock to the left) to the anchors. 3 bolts + 2 bolt anchors with steel biners shared with Roofous Right.

Roofous Right ** 5.11b S 👍👍

Start with a V3 boulder problem through the right side of the roof (optional stick clip 1st bolt). Continue on easier, solid terrain (avoid loose rock to the right) to the anchors. 3 bolts + anchors shared with Roofous Left.

The White Route **** 5.11a S 👍👍

Climb the steep white face avoiding loose rock to the left. Stay right on good rock at the top. Top bolt has a perma-draw to facilitate lowering. 4 bolts + 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks shared with the Black Route.

The Black Route *** 5.11c S 👍👍

Climb the shallow right-facing corner and through an overhang into a black groove. 4 bolts + 2 bolt anchor.

The Black Crack * 5.11a T 👎

Climb the crack right of the Black Route. Gear.

Gnar ** 5.10a S 👍👍

Good warm-up. Jug climbing to start. Steepens after the second bolt. Crux above the third bolt. Good hand jam at the top. 4 bolts + optional 1.5-2" cam at the top. 2 bolt anchor with mussy hooks (extend over the edge if top-roping).

Mystère *** 5.11c S  👍👍

Ascends the wall below a prominent, pointed cliff-top overhang and is often protected from rain. Tricky moves at the third bolt. Move right to the (new) anchors after the last bolt. 5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor with chains and mussy hooks (*the original anchor bolts up and left at the overhang are loose). FA by Matt/Ben?

Manos *** 5.11a S  👍👍

Ascends the wall below a prominent, pointed cliff-top overhang and is often protected from rain. An independent line between Mystère and Arya. Ascends directly below the chains and mussy hook anchors. 5 bolts (glue-ins). 10/10/21

Arya *** 5.10c S  👍👍

Start 20 ft. right of Mystère. Climb a shallow groove avoiding a large, hollow block to the left until you can stand on it. Move left to the anchors at the last bolt. 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (steel biners). 5/3/19

Pack Rat 5.7 T 💀

This follows the broken crack system right of the Mystère wall. There are a couple of bushes in the crack and big loose blocks at the top. Otherwise, good climbing and good gear. Cams to 2". Bush anchors.

Americano (project) *** 5.8 S  👍👍

Left hand route of three routes on a chocolate-colored wall. Starts just left of a flake that forms a small left-facing dihedral. Needs 5 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor.

Macchiato *** 5.11c S  👍👍

The left route of the glue-in bolt routes on this section of the cliff. Just right of a flake that forms a small right-facing dihedral (avoid the flake, it looks loose). Crimps and side pulls up the white rock lead to easier but continuous climbing to the anchors. Stick clipping the second bolt avoids a scary 2nd clip.

5 glue-in bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (steel biners) shared with Mocha. 6/2/2021

Mocha *** 5.11b S  👍👍

First route you come to approaching from the south after a long very chossy section of the cliff. Clip the first bolt from a finger slot then use crimps to move right and up the white wall to a black streak on the chocolate rock. Stay away from the loose blocks in the dihedral to the right. 5 glue-in bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (shared with Macchiato). 6/2/2021

South End

These routes ascend the wall just left (north) of the Grotto.

NPR (Nutcracker Practice Route) Left D7+ 💀

Chossy. Caution: loose rock especially if you get off route. Start under a triangular overhang with bolts leading around it's left side. Turn the overhang to the left staying in the thin crack on small holds. Place questionable gear (1.5" cam) and clip a fixed wire in the crack but stay to the right. Head toward another thin crack in the brown rock. Toward the top avoid loose rock to the left and continue up the thin crack to a prominent overhang.  Surmount the overhang to a ledge (can place a 2" cam). Top-out can be difficult if not frozen. 6 Bolts to anchors on the ledge.

NPR (Nutcracker Practice Route) Right D8 💀

Choss. Left of Bumps and The Power of Now. Start under a triangular overhang (same as above) and turn it to the right on big holds for tools but poor feet (crux). Continue on steep hollow rock to a widening crack (to 1.5"). Surmount the overhanging crack to and gain the ledge. Still needs some loose rock cleaning and bolts (probably 7-8). A direct start will be harder ?D9.

Bumps ** 5.12a S 👎

High stick clip. Crux before the first bolt. 5 bolts to anchors Stick clip

The Power of Now ** 5.11c  15m S 👎

First bolted route left of Tomahawk. Climb an overhanging face into a crux right facing dihedral (stick clip the first bolt). At the 4th bolt go straight up (easier) or right (harder) and up to the 2 bolt belay anchors. 5 bolts. JS 4/10 Stick clip